Davanti Enoteca - Peter DeRuvo's New Digs

[uhockey]

Interesting - Scott Harris e-mailed me through the blog today thanking me for the feedback...clearly he is paying attention to the chatter and keeping an eye on things. Very reassuring, imo.

This article is about a year old but it's interesting nonetheless...

http://www.chicagomag.com/Chicago-Magazine/September-2011/Scott-Harris-the-Most-Underrated-Restaurateur-in-the-Country/

Wow - thanks for posting - hadn't seen that and very cool.

[Lunchbox]

Do they take reservations? I am looking to take Mrs. Lunchbox to dinner on Saturday night... I didn't see anything on their website nor OpenTable... I'm super excited to get here...

[uhockey]

Don't know - place seats 240 so I don't think you'd need 'em.

[cactuschowdah]

When I went a few weeks back, I had to call, and had a slightly frustrating experience. Told them I was booking for 2, and they said "well, we don't really take reservations, but we can hold your table up to the time of your request". And I'm like "what?!?". They proceeded to explain they will take your name, and put it on a list, but that doesn't necessarily guarantee you a table. I was having flashbacks to the Seinfeld episode where he got in an argument with car rental lady about reservations ("anyone can TAKE a reservation, they key is to HOLD the reservation").

Anyway, it was much ado about nothing, as to uhockey's point the place is huge, and I tend to dine at senior citizen hours anyway (think our reservation was for 6). But it is a strange and annoying wrinkle in an otherwise good operation. In my opinion, either take them, or not- this in between stuff is just strange.

[Skillet Doux]

So I'm looking at the hours, and I'm thinking, "Hey, great... they're open until 10. I can sneak out once everybody's down, grab a seat at the bar by 9:00 or 9:30, and get myself a simple plate of pasta for dinner." And I really should have learned by now that it rarely works out that way.

Parmesan and Summer Truffle Risotto

First of all, because the kitchen was kind enough to send out their new parmesan and summer truffle risotto for me to try (I added its price to the tip line -- weird personal quirk). It's a really nice risotto that I enjoyed quite a bit. Nice creamy texture, a very mellow parmesan flavor, a hint of pungent truffle... good stuff. It didn't taste like Parmigiano Reggiano. Which is fine, I'm not one of those "the king or nothing" type of people. There are lots of delicious cheeses out there. But I wonder if it was something else, or if it was just something about the technique that mellowed it out so much. DeRuvo came out afterwards and we talked risotto texture a bit, too. This was a little stiff for my preference, but again, I'm not in the "there is ONE right way to do risotto" camp. I tend to like mine a little looser, and DeRuvo said he generally does as well. But the reason I bring it up is because he indicated this is partly -- of course -- because they're using Arborio, which tends to make a stiffer risotto. He told me he's going to be getting some Acquerello rice, which I've never had but I understand is one of the newer subtypes of Carnaroli. Unless I misunderstood, I think he said it's even creamier than Vialone Nano, which would really be something. But I might have misunderstood -- it might have just been a reference to flavor. In any case, from what I've heard, Acquerello is some special stuff so I'm anxious to give it a try once it's in.

Strozzapreti Amatriciana

This was what I came for, and it was actually the only dish that I didn't enjoy. I need to be clear here -- this is at least 75% my issue. Probably more. If I came at this totally clean, I'd probably say it was a fine pasta. It was more Italian-American than anything, very saucy (I left a good third of a cup in the dish), tons and tons of garlic in big slivers and rather acidic. The pasta itself was great -- made in-house, thick with a really nice bite and flavor. But it's SO not Amatriciana. I really, really wish they'd just call it something else. It's parmesan instead of pecorino. The garlic is overpowering. The guanciale is smoked (this drives me crazy), cut into tiny dice and the fat is barely detectable. It just doesn't resemble Amatriciana at all, and when you've been thinking all day about that plate of Amatriciana you're going to have for dinner, it's really frustrating.

Polpo con Rafano

Okay, I forgive you. It's barely Italian, but you're right, Christina, it's a great dish, so who cares? It's kind of absurdly over the top. It's almost too much. But it isn't. Beautiful, huge tentacles with a lightly crisped, seared exterior and sweet, tender meat inside. Fingerling potatoes, diced finocchiona, marcona almonds, lots of sauteed scallions, all dressed with a horseradish(!) aioli. It's just big and delicious. DeRuvo mentioned that at the other Davanti Enotecas, they chop the octopus and toss it with the potatoes, almost like a chunky potato salad. It's so much better this way. It's so satisfying, going at those big tentacles with a steak knife, getting that great pan-seared texture... serving it with the aioli, yes, but I can't imagine wanting to bury it within. Plus it's just cool. My dinner looks like it's going to reach out and grab me, and I'm totally okay with that.

Sorbetti

I'm not sure what it says about the menu, but this is the second trip in a row that sorbetti sounded just perfect afterwards. They've actually improved since last time, when one of the three was awfully icy. These were all beautifully smooth and full-flavored. The dark frutti di bosco on the top was the densest of the three, sweet and almost creamy in texture. The blood orange had a very pronounced bitter component that I loved. And the strawberry lemonade on the bottom was like a little treat from Chicago, reminiscent of Italian lemonade from the neighborhood stand in the summertime.

I wonder if it might take them a little longer than normal to really settle in over there. It seems like there are a lot of competing forces at work. Is the menu Italian Italian, Italian American, or Contemporary Italian? Is the menu DeRuvo's, or is it out of the corporate playbook? Does he make the food he made while working in Italy, or the food that he suspects will do best in Scottsdale? I get the sense that DeRuvo's being pulled in a lot of different directions, and frankly I'm impressed that things are coming together as solidly as they are, so far. It feels a little schizophrenic to me, but I think it'll come together, and there are already some great dishes coming out of the kitchen. I'm mostly excited to see what happens as DeRuvo's influence over the menu grows.

[uhockey]

Shocking you've never had Acquerello rice as you seem to've tried everything.

I really hope that menu continues to evolve away from the "corporate" identity - but even the corporate stuff is really well composed.

...and, I thought Saturday late wasn't going to work for you?

[Skillet Doux]

This was Friday night. I let a day pass before posting. Slacking, I know.

[uhockey]

This was Friday night. I let a day pass before posting. Slacking, I know.

How dare you (says the guy still backlogged to April on his blog.)

[SimpleCaveman]

Hey all. Been following along for a few months but this is my first post. I haven't been compelled to respond to anything so far but as it happens, I was also there Friday night and also had the risotto and strozzapretti in addition to a few other plates. I'm a big kid, I like to eat.

Tried the focaccia di recco that seems to be getting a lot of buzz. Rightly so. Awesome. Can't-wait-to-try-everything-else-I-ordered-I-hope-it's-that-good awesome. Nothing really approached it the rest of the evening but maybe I let that focaccia raise my bar too high. The risotto was a bit stiff for my liking as well. Not a huge deal. My problem was it hadn't been seasoned. At all. Tasted like a big mouthful of butter. No parm flavor to speak of, the only flavor pop coming if a particular spoonful happened to have a slice of truffle on it. Found the strozzapretti to have the same problem. The pasta itself was well made and the tomato had good acidity. But again, no seasoning. And I like any dish that is gonna list chilies in the ingredients to have a little heat.

Also tried the pork blade steak. Steak itself was cooked beautifully -- nice to see someone not afraid to serve their pork with a little color left on the inside -- and the bean ragu had nice flavor though not nearly as much as the smoked bean puree that accompanied the pork belly. Oh...did I not mention I had the pork belly too? Like I said...big kid. The belly was great with a nice crispy, fatty topside and good pork fatty interior. The sliced grapes were a nice sweet touch.

I'd like to go back and give the pizza a shot. Maybe actually eat a vegetable next time too.

[uhockey]

Welcome to the board.

[Skillet Doux]

Fabulous first report, SimpleCaveman! Welcome, and glad to have you aboard!

[uhockey]

Chef DeRuvo posted via FB that Crispy Duck is the Whim for Saturday, just in case anyone wants to check out the best dish I've had since moving to Phoenix (or at least neck and neck with the Gnocchi at Italian Restaurant.)

[Dapuma]

Chef DeRuvo posted via FB that Crispy Duck is the Whim for Saturday, just in case anyone wants to check out the best dish I've had since moving to Phoenix (or at least neck and neck with the Gnocchi at Italian Restaurant.)

Thanks, should be up there Saturday then, have been missing that since he left Cuocco, the chef that took over never got it the same

[uhockey]

Thinking about heading back myself; need a break from the house unpacking/sorting/studying. Debating Davanti vs. trying something new like FnB or Deseo.

[uhockey]

Brunch started today. They've been posting pictures of the bloody bar and a few new menu items this morning. Probably going to check it out tomorrow.

[uhockey]

...the brunch is good stuff. Really good. And I think I might be a bit "full" (admittedly I ate the better part of ~6 pastries at LGO this morning for breakfast)

menu top

menu bottom

Purple Pig Panini with House Made Marshmallow Fluff, Nutella, and Banana

Pastry Board with honey butter, grape jam, warm cinnamon roll, cinnamon sugar donut, chocolate marcona almond and cream cheese donut, fig and walnut muffin, honey sour cream muffin

Ricotta and Local Honeycomb Vasi

Pumpkin Ricotta Pancakes with Pecans and Syrup

Uovo Barzotto with Pork Belly Potato Hash, Poached Eggs, Avocado, Tomato Hollandaise

Obligatory Runny Yolk Shot

Bruschette with Mortadella, 20yr balsamic, and pistachio

They've fixed up the soundtrack (Zeppelin's 10 Years Gone, Floyd's Wish You Were Here, some Cream, The Who, Stones, Strokes, Modest Mouse, xx, Interpol, Billy Joel, etc) and the service was spot on this time, as well.

Met Chef DeRuvo - awesome guy - and also GM Cynthia DiNardo who runs the website/facebook feed, and who was still pleasant even though I'm sure she'd have rather been watching her Eagles (at least until they lost.) The young woman with the badass steroid ring structure tattoo on her upper chest and the really (really) young man were also GREAT at circulating the room without being obtrusive or "in your face" (unlike servers on my last visit.)

I love this place. A lot.

[uhockey]

...the brunch is good stuff. Really good. And I think I might be a bit "full" (admittedly I ate the better part of ~6 pastries at LGO this morning for breakfast)

They've fixed up the soundtrack (Zeppelin's 10 Years Gone, Floyd's Wish You Were Here, some Cream, The Who, Stones, Strokes, Modest Mouse, xx, Interpol, Billy Joel, etc) and the service was spot on this time, as well.

Met Chef DeRuvo - awesome guy - and also GM Cynthia DiNardo who runs the website/facebook feed, and who was still pleasant even though I'm sure she'd have rather been watching her Eagles (at least until they lost.) The young woman with the badass steroid ring structure tattoo on her upper chest and the really (really) young man were also GREAT at circulating the room without being obtrusive or "in your face" (unlike servers on my last visit.)

I love this place. A lot.

Full rambling thoughts here: http://endoedibles.com/?p=3779

[Lunchbox]

Had a really nice dinner here last night... I only wish we had more people so we could have tried a few more dishes... But what we did have was solid.

We started with the Chicken Liver Pate with Poached Cherries and Tuscan Toast. I liked it but I thought it was a little loose. A great start to the meal.

Next came the focaccia di recco and honey... We loved, loved, loved this dish. Perfect in every way... This is a must order if you go here...

Mrs. Lunchbox wanted a salad so we opted for the bibb ceasar with pecorino dressing. The dressing was delicious. The only thing we didn't like were the croutons which were not toasted very well.

Next came the crispy pork belly. It wasn't as crispy as I would have expected. There was something just not right with this dish. It's not that it was bad per se but it just fell a little flat. The meat was perfectly tender though and I ate most of it as Mrs. LBX wasn't into it. It was a beautifully presented dish though as the picture below will show.

Our last dish of the night was the Gnocchi di Ricotta with eggplant, roasted tomatoes, basil, and mozzarella. I wanted to like this more as well. It was a good dish but I've had better gnocchi with better/softer texture that left you wanting more. The sauce was tasty though and I liked the almost whole roasted tomatoes. I would have liked a little more eggplant. But all that being said, I would order this again.

We were going to try the Chef's Whim (Spinach pappardelle with lobster and shrimp) but it was sold out before we could order and we were full anyway.

We were shown the dessert menu and nothing tickled our fancy. (So we opted to hit up Sweet Republic. Their secret flavor is I love bacon. It's awesome.)

I'm looking forward to going back to Davanti (with more people) to try more dishes.

Chicken Liver Pate.

I thought the pate was a little loose.

LOVED the focaccia di recco.

Bibb Caesar salad.

Crispy(?) pork belly...

Gnocchi di Ricotta.

[Lunchbox]

Oh yeah, one last thought...

The first thing Mrs. Lunchbox and I commented when we got to the car was the fact that the wait staff's lack of uniforms was weird... I don't know why but something about the guy running around in a Charlie Sheen "Winning" T-shirt didn't set the tone for the meal... Am I crazy on this one?

[Christina]

Was wondering how it was. I thought it was too cold and you might have left! I really wish we lived closer; I'd be here weekly. I still have to have the chicken liver pate - next time!