Contigo Peru - CLOSED

[Skillet Doux]

(Note: An old post from a previous board... just priming the pump a bit!)

Though we suffered a bit of last-minute attrition,the feast at Contigo Peru was a great time. Chris (chrislee) came along, it was great to meet Ric and Bobbi, and since Mike (Mike Todd) joined me at Rincon Peruano on the Peruvian blitz a few months ago, it was great to get him down to what ended up being the favorite. I believe he concurred wholeheartedly

I'm consistently impressed by how much care goes into these dishes. Big flavor, (mostly) great ingredients, lovely presentations, friendly family running the place... other than slightly lower prices, it's absolutely everything I look for in a little ethnic joint. And I'm not knocking the value one bit. I think the prices are absolutely justified. I just wouldn't term them "cheap eats" (though they do an $8 lunch special that I haven't yet tried).

Since Mike had never been and Ric and Bobbi had only visited once, we did a mix of old favorites and new dishes.

Papa a la Huancaina

I still hadn't tried Contigo's version of this until yesterday. It's boiled potato, sliced and smothered in a spicy cheese sauce. The comparison to nacho cheese is, I suppose, kind of unavoidable. But whether or not there's direct lineage involved, I like to think of this as the delicious traditional dish that served as the inspiration for the bastardized Americanized version. This actually had a little zip, which Chris and I were discussing seems to make all the difference. I've had this a few times before, but I've rarely enjoyed it as much. Without the spice, it just comes off as sort of decadently cheesy. The aji makes a big difference.

Causa Rellena de Camarones

We'd tried the causa with chicken salad on previous visits, so we opted for the shrimp version this time. Though I think I actually prefer the other -- there's something so delightfully incongruous and exciting to me about chicken salad sandwiched between potatoes seasoned with lime and aji. It's more of the crazy natural fusion that I love about Peruvian. But that's not to take anything away from this version, which substituted shrimp salad and a grilled shrimp on top.

Ceviche de Pescado

I've tried the mixed ceviche before, and I think I prefer the plain fish version. Great flavor, strong acidity that's balanced by the sweet potato. The only complain, as before, is that I wish they'd use something other than tilapia. This is, admittedly, one of the few contexts in which I think tilapia can be okay, but it's still the boneless skinless chicken breast of the piscine world.

Parihuela

This is one I've been dying to try for a long time, and it was really nice. Basically, it came across as a cioppino, which isn't the least bit surprising given the heavy Italian influences on Peruvian cuisine. It was a deep, tomato soup with oregano (I think) and perhaps some of the Peruvian mint. Chock full of seafood -- fish, squid, crab, mussels, clams, more I'm sure. A little spritz of fresh lime, and it was delicious.

Lomo Saltado

Photo from a previous visit, here. We got this since Ric and Bobbi hadn't tried it on their previous visit, and I though Mike would enjoy the comparison to Rincon Peruano. It's such a low brow dish, but every time I have it here, I'm impressed by how nicely it's seasoned. They really do elevate something that's often just sort of a plain (if satisfying) starch and meat dish.

Tallarin Verde con Suprema de Pollo

Tallarin is something I've never tried before. Partially because I've always understood it's pretty much straight-up Italian, and I've always kind of figured that I'd get that when I'm going for Italian. But it seemed about time. And it's pretty much what I expected - linguine in a thick, creamy pesto with a pounded, breaded and fried chicken cutlet and roasted potato. The chicken was actually really nice. Some herbs and seasonings in the breading, very thin and delightfully crisp. The pasta, less so. It was a heavy basil pesto that I think might have had some Peruvian mint, and the pasta was way overcooked by Italian standards (could be typical of Peruvian... I have no idea). But the chicken was great. I have to review the menu and see if they serve it along with anything else.

Pescado Contigo Peru

My favorite of the day was a new dish that Monica pointed out to us. The name would imply that it's sort of a signature dish, and it's deserving of the title. It's a fried fish fillet along with shrimp, bay scallops and fried yuca in a spicy sauce made with pisco. I have no idea what else is in there, but it's very reminiscent of Chinese, so I wonder if there are some crossover ingredients. The seafood was all fantastic, particularly the scallops which were beautifully tender. This is a really, really good dish. One of my favorites at the restaurant.

Alfajores

I couldn't resist the alfajores. I ordered on everyone's behalf. Caramel that's reminiscent of dulce de leche sandwiched between shortbread cookies and dusted with powdered sugar. Nothing not to like.

There's more on the menu to explore. This place is really a gem, and I'm anxious to get back.

Contigo Peru
www.contigoperuaz.com
1245 W. Guadalupe Rd.
Mesa, AZ, 85202
480-838-7378

[MyLifeOnVacatio]

Contigo is our go-to Peruvian place (where I've been on a bit of an Aji de Gallina kick lately). Has anyone has tried Tumi, which is further down Alma School? They have a Groupon today so I may just buy it and try them out.

[Skillet Doux]

I'd planned to get to Tumi last week and plans fell through at the last minute. I'm anxious to give it a try. I keep trying other places and coming back to Contigo. But lord knows I'd be thrilled about another great Peruvian joint.

[MyLifeOnVacatio]

Yesterday, we turned a necessary run to Best Buy into a fun errand by stopping at Contigo Peru on the way. Well, it was a little out of the way, but always worth it. I had Ahi de Gallina on my mind (and it was as delicious as always), so could not be swayed to sample the new "Chifa" weekend menu (Peruvian Cantonese), although it looks interesting enough that I will come back to try more. I'm not exactly clear on the situation, but I gathered that an additional chef is in the kitchen on the weekends who is Cantonese. The entire regular Peruvian menu continues to be available.

Chifa Menu

[Photo fixed -Mod]

Rather than a traditional Peruvian starter, we did try the Wantan Frito, 6 small meat filled wontons fried up very nicely. They hit the spot, but then I saw the Kamlu Wantan version go to another table and wished we had ordered them. The same fried wontons, but with a variety of sauteed veg on top and sitting in the sauce. Very festive looking.

[SalamanderX]

Do any of these Peruvian places have that amazing "green sauce" - I think an ajo/aji-based classic. We ate gallons of this in NYC at places like Pio Pio, Pio Pio Riko. Loved it so much, that after numerous failed attempts to recreate at home, I submitted my sorry self to the place and begged for some to take home. Surprisingly they sold a large container to us for only $7 (about 24oz). I think no one can recreate it because the pepper is rare here in the states.

[SalamanderX]

Funny, I found a lady who wrote about the same elusive green sauce...
http://www.seriouseats.com/2010/03/peru ... t-nyc.html

[MyLifeOnVacatio]

Yes, both Contigo Peru & Tumi serve the green sauce with their bread service. It always seems a bit incongruous with the soft bread (I want to crunch tortilla chips), but I was disappointed when we didn't get it yesterday since our wontons arrived so quickly.

[Skillet Doux]

...could not be swayed to sample the new "Chifa" weekend menu (Peruvian Cantonese), although it looks interesting enough that I will come back to try more. I'm not exactly clear on the situation, but I gathered that an additional chef is in the kitchen on the weekends who is Cantonese.

THIS is really fascinating to me. There's a huge Chinese immigrant population in Peru, which is where the dishes like Chaufa (a Spanish transliteration of Chow Fan) and stir fries like Lomo Saltado come from. Obviously there must be much more -- when 20% of your populations immigrates from another country, they don't leave a mark so small -- but I've never seen a selection this large or a dedicated Chifa menu anywhere outside of Peru. DId they say if "weekend" includes Fridays as it does for the other weekend specials? If so, we are totally doing this for Foodnik Friday when I get back in town.

[MyLifeOnVacatio]

I thought this might pique your interest, Dom. She (Erica) just said "weekends", and it wasn't until after we left that I started to wonder about Fridays. They include Fridays in their weekend when they talk about pollo a la brasa, so perhaps. If I remember to call them tomorrow, I'll post an update here.

[Lunchbox]

...could not be swayed to sample the new "Chifa" weekend menu (Peruvian Cantonese), although it looks interesting enough that I will come back to try more. I'm not exactly clear on the situation, but I gathered that an additional chef is in the kitchen on the weekends who is Cantonese.

Is it available for "takee-outee"? Sorry that's all I think of when I see this Peruvian Cantonese fusion...

[Skillet Doux]

Nononononono, that's like calling the food in Alsace "fusion." I don't mean to delegitimize either, but let's not lump neighboring countries, influences of immigrant populations, and substance-enhanced insanity all together now

(He's trying to get under my skin. Can I resist? Nope. Can't do it.)

[Lunchbox]

(He's trying to get under my skin. Can I resist? Nope. Can't do it.)

Sorry, I just couldn't resist... I'll stop now...

[M_L]

Do any of these Peruvian places have that amazing "green sauce" - I think an ajo/aji-based classic. We ate gallons of this in NYC at places like Pio Pio, Pio Pio Riko. Loved it so much, that after numerous failed attempts to recreate at home, I submitted my sorry self to the place and begged for some to take home. Surprisingly they sold a large container to us for only $7 (about 24oz). I think no one can recreate it because the pepper is rare here in the states.

Is it a Chimichurri type sauce? It is fairly ubiquitous in the South American type restaurants though I suspect it varies a bit. No clue how to replicate it properly.

[Skillet Doux]

Not exactly, though it's not entirely dissimilar. If you're supertraditional about it, the cornerstones are aji amarillo and huacatay, both of which aren't exactly easy to come by, which is partly why there are oodles of doppelgänger recipes out there with various substitutions for the same. It's not really tangy like a chimichurri, the garlic isn't so pronounced, and it's usually a little creamy, but only just so. So, yeah, they're both spicy and have that bright green flavor, but their paths mostly diverge from there.

[phxmacbear]

The only time I had that "Peruvian Green Sauce" (over on Scottsdale/McKellips, what's that place called? Villa Peru?) I thought it had a lettuce-y taste.
I've stumbled across SOME, but not all, recipes that call for lettuce in that sauce. Is that more traditional/authentic? Or a bastardization?

[MyLifeOnVacatio]

Phone confirmation: Chifa menu happens Fri, Sat & Sun.

[chrislee]

I know you can get aji amarillo at Phoenix Ranch Market. I love the aji verde at Contigo Peru. Monica told me the ingredients a while back & directed me to Phoenix Ranch Market. We got some jars of aji amarillo and aji rocoto there & attempted to replicate the ajis. I think the aji verde (from very poor memory) gets its color from the other ingredients. I believe it is still aji amarillo (yellow) that is the pepper used? Need to go back & ask again now.

[Skillet Doux]

I confess, the Chifa menu at Contigo Peru isn't quite what I expected. Tasty, but not quite what I anticipated. Monica wasn't in the restaurant today, but we told the woman who was helping us that we wanted to try out the Chifa menu. After explaining what a couple of the dishes were, she asked if we'd prefer that they go ahead and choose some dishes that they'd like us to try, and we set them loose. The result:

Sopa Wantan

No mystery about what was going on here. A very nice soup! Good broth with strong chicken flavor -- a little richer than I expect from a straight-up Chinese version. But otherwise, while tasty, it didn't strike me as terribly Peruvian. The slices of char siu had barely been marinated, which made them more like plain roasted pork, but stick this in any Americanized Chinese joint and I never would have guessed there was supposed to be any kind of Peruvian influence.

Kamlu Wantan

The Kamlu Wantan was more atypical. We got fried versions of the wontons, crisp wrappers wrapped around chunks of pork, with chunks of chicken, shrimp, pineapple and vegetables, with a thin but flavorful sweet sour sauce with a fair amount of heat. It struck me almost like a spicy sweet sour pork, with the wonton wrappers adding a really nice texture in place of the typical fried batter. But it still played very much like an Americanized Chinese dish.

Chancho al Ajo

The theme continues with the Chancho al Ajo, slices of what appeared to be the same char siu as the soup in a sauce with so much garlic we could smell it when it was still five paces from the table. The pork was a little lean for my tastes, but the sauce was plenty enjoyable even on its own over some rice.

Enrollado de Pollo

The Enrollado do Pollo, as you might surmise from the name, was a rolled chicken torpedo with shrimp stuffing that was then fried, sliced, and sauced with a deep and very mellow brown sauce. The amount of shrimp was quite small, but it added just a bit of complexity. In general, I thought this particular dish was underseasoned and kind of run-of-the-mill as brown sauces go. But it wasn't without its charms.

Chaufa

One thing is that, as you can see, everything was very, very saucy. A nice, simple steaming Chaufa (chow fan - fried rice) with chicken was great for mopping up.

I was really, really surprised by just how similar this was to the Americanized Chinese we're used to. I expected more of the fusion-ey dishes, like Lomo Saltado, or some of the seafood Chaufas that kind of walk the line between Chinese fried rice and the Spanish-influenced rice dishes. But as I mentioned, you could have dropped all of these dishes into an Americanized Chinese joint and I don't think I would have ever identified them as having come from a Peruvian hand. Taken for what it is, it's not bad at all. Put this menu in its own place, and I'd consider it a pretty good Americanized Chinese joint. Better, frankly, than most of the actual Americanized Chinese joints in town! But I confess, it's tough for me not to be disappointed given the expectations I brought to the table. I wonder if this is typical of Chifa joints in Peru. That's not something we had the chance to sample when i was down there.

I guess, in some ways, I find it kind of comforting that in Peru, they can bastardize Chinese food just as well as we can

Though I don't know that I'm in a rush to have any of these again (except perhaps the Kamlu Wantan), I would like to sample a few of those we didn't get to. For others' reference, we got descriptions on some of the other dishes:

Wantan Frito
These are the same wontons used in the Kamlu Wantan, except served by themselves. Perhaps with a dipping sauce? I'm not sure.

Tallarin Saltado
We didn't discuss this one specifically, but I believe this is going to be stir-fried noodles, though whether it'll be Chinese noodles or the kind of Italian-style pasta that is usually meant by tallarin in Peru. If the latter, that might be interesting.

Pollo Chihuakai
This was described to us as being sort of similar to a Sweet Sour Chicken, though our server seemed a little reluctant to make that comparison.

Pollo Tipakai
This one's Teriyaki-style, which would show a bit of the Japanese influence in Peru as well.

If anybody gives any of these a try, do report back!

[Lunchbox]

Best part of the meal was when Dom stopped all conversation to point out that we were listening to this:

[Skillet Doux]

YOU FOUND IT!!!

(This alone justifies installing the YouTube tag.)